Designing Fashion Make-up; Marc Jacobs (Helen)

The undeniable sinister edge was mostly derived from the combination of the screeching scratching string soundtrack – uncomfortably grating – and the ugly hair and makeup; Jacobs models wore the tightest top knots and their faces were powdered pale with sunken shadowed eyes and lips painted in the deepest darkest plum – it was haunting – and quite shocking to the eye.” – Sarah Harris

From the text I picked up on these key factors:

  • Ugly hair and make-up
  • Tight top knots
  • Powdered pale faces
  • Sunken shadowed eyes
  • Deep, dark plum lips

Therefore, taking these key features into account, I came up with this look:

To create this look, I mixed the Illamasqua skin base with my normal foundation colour to create a paler skin tone, and I then powdered this using the translucent powder to create the ‘powdered pale faces’; I also purposely allowed powder to fall onto the eyebrows to enhance this idea. I then used a grey colour to contour the face, e.g. the cheeks, forehead and nose, to keep in line with the ‘sunken shadowed’ feel.

I used a grey tone eyeshadow to hollow out the eye area, to create ‘sunken shadowed eyes’ and then incorporated a plum colour into the crease, to go with the lips. I also applied these colours under the eye to bring it all together. I added eyeliner to the top of the eye, and mascara to the top and bottom lashes.

Finally, I added a matte deep, dark plum colour the the lips. I think the whole make-up did look quite ugly and sinister, as described in the passage…

Afterwards, I then went on to research what the actual make-up was like in the fashion show…

I was surprised to see both the similarities and differences between the 2 different looks. I think it is interesting that, even when given the exact same passage of text, we are able to produce such different ideas and outcomes. For example, I incorporated the plum colour into the eyeshadow, whereas they used a more grey-tone and used plum on the lips only. I also thought that the face would’ve been slightly more sculpted and contoured than it actually is, but they created this in a different way, e.g. using straight eyebrows.


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